After removing the eggs I place them into a tub with 1-2inch of vermiculite I slightly dampen the vermiculite and also place a small pot of water with holes in the lid into the incubation box, as this evaporates it raises the humidity level. The box is then placed in the incubator.
I currently use a large glass fronted drinks fridge with a thermostated heat cable to provide a steady temp of 81-82f.The eggs are checked every few days as this also allows air exchange in the incubater.the eggs normally hatch at around 55 days. The hatchlings often poke their heads out of the egg and can sometimes seem reluctant to leave,please be patient and do not try to remove them as they can still be attached to the yolk.
When fully emerged I place the hatchling in tubs and leave them to settle.
After a week I try to feed by placing a pinkie mouse in the tub.
Most hatchling feed straight away, but sometimes you do get a reluctant feeder.
Any that refuse food I leave for a few days and then try a fresh killed pinkie, this normally does the trick, but if not I will leave again and then try a brained pinkie. If this is refused I will leave again for a full week and then repeat, if the hatchling still refuses I will try scenting.
I always make sure that non feeders are drinking through out the process
The most effective scent I use is trout but others include
Boiled egg white
The above care sheet is just a guide, as there are many ways to keep and breed hognose snakes, these are just my personal preferences. I have also found that hogs can and will ignore the rules, for the first time this year I had a female lay while in prelay shed outside of the nest box! and another female lay fertile eggs even though she has not been paired up for over two years.
Please remember that as the animals owner you are responsible for providing the best care possible for your snake, if a health problem arises please seek advise from an experienced vet.